Cajun Invasion
Origins of what we know to be "Cajun"
The onslaught of crawfish boils in the state of Texas raises an interesting question; How did Cajun culture make it’s way to out of the Bayou?
As with any culture, Cajuns are not stagnant, nor are they incapable of expanding their borders.
People of Cajun descent are still concentrated in Louisiana, but their heritage and culture is felt throughout. Cajuns are the descendants of exiled Acadians from Nova Scotia who moved to Louisiana in the 1700s. Many moved to the –then– French property in order to continue living under a French government.
Despite their extended history, the word "Cajun" itself is a fairly recent result of the an Anglicism of the French word "les Acadiens" or "The Acadians." After hundreds of years of English-speakers who could not pronounce the French nomenclature, there was a phonetic shift and the name has been used since the mid nineteenth century.
Why Cajuns Come to Texas
The initial migration of some Cajuns occurred in a number of ways. The discovery of Spindletop oil fields in 1901 drew thousands of Cajuns to Texas. As people came to work and benefit from the black gold, they also brought their crawfish with them. In 1915, when a hurricane hit the coastal region of Texas, Cajuns came to help rebuild the damaged areas. The next influx came when laborers were needed in the industries during World War II.
The current reasons for migration of Cajuns however varies from white-collar experts who find job opportunities in Texas to forced migration because of natural disasters.
Getting Personal
Darold Gordon, who owns the “New Orleans Po-Boy and Gumbo Shop” food van off East 11th Street, came here for less than pleasant reasons.
“We came here because of Hurricane Katrina,” he said. “It was good for the family, good for the money.”
Gordon has been in the cooking business for more than 20 years. In New Orleans he had a catering restaurant, Bar and Grill. He also worked with one of the founders of Popeye’s chicken and later became the executive chef of Planet Hollywood restaurants all over the world.
Gordon has been in the cooking business for more than 20 years. In New Orleans he had a catering restaurant, Bar and Grill. He also worked with one of the founders of Popeye’s chicken and later became the executive chef of Planet Hollywood restaurants all over the world.
As a result of his Planet Hollywood connection in Houston, a window of opportunity to continue his catering business after Katrina opened up in Austin.
When he initially moved to Austin, however, he was the kitchen manager of Quality Seafood Market off of Airport Boulevard.
Now his white, rectangular trailer is a fixture in the East Austin community and his boiled crawfish are a staple at events like the Urban Music Festival and Crawfish Festival.
Crawfish In All Its Glory
Crawfish are also prepared in a variety of ways at the boils themselves. Some other variations include crawfish étouffée, crawfish pie, crawfish dressing and crawfish bread.
Stories like Darold Gordon’s seem to dominate the current migration of Louisianans and their crawfish culture.
In no way however, do the Cajuns have a monopoly on these crimson critters. Variations of crawfish preparation can be found in China, France, Mexico and even Scandinavia. What makes the way crawfish is eaten here in the U.S. distinct is the community atmosphere that is inevitable with crawfish boils.
Regardless of the reasons behind the spread of crawfish culture, one thing is certain: Louisianans are not about to give up their rights to the food or the anything associated with it.
“Crawfish come out the Bayou,” said Gordon in his telltale Louisiana twang. “[We cook it] with spice and a little zest to it, it’s different but it’s good.”
Sources:
Huntsman, Mark. Crawfish Boils, Jazz Brunches, and Reveillon Dinners:
The role of tradition and change in three ritual meals from Louisiana. What’s Cooking America.
Plocheck, Robert. Cajun Texans. Texas Almanac. 2009.
